Szumirad – rezerwaty Smolnik i Kamieniec

Gdzie艣 polas? Anom, w las polas 馃槈

P贸艂 godziny jazdy samochodem od Opola, przy drodze do Olesna, znajduje si臋 wie艣 Szumirad. W XVIII wieku powsta艂 w tej okolicy okr臋g przemys艂owy, za艣 teraz w jej pobli偶u znajduj膮 si臋 dwa rezerwaty przyrody i sporo lasu. To w艂a艣nie w Szumiradzie zacz臋li艣my tym razem swoj膮 wycieczk臋.

rezerwat Smolnik
Rezerwat Smolnik – staw

Obecnie wie艣 sk艂ada si臋 z kilkudziesi臋ciu dom贸w, z kt贸rych cz臋艣膰 jest opuszczona lub w z艂ym stanie. Nas jednak bardziej zainteresowa艂 znajduj膮cy si臋 tu florystyczny rezerwat przyrody Smolnik[1]smolarnia (w lokalnej gwarze smolnik) – zak艂ad, w kt贸rym pozyskiwano z resztek drewna smo艂臋, terpentyn臋 czy alkohol metylowy. W okolicy by艂o ich kiedy艣 kilka i to im swoj膮 nazw臋 zawdzi臋cza rezerwat. Powo艂ano go, jak nie trudno si臋 domy艣li膰 z jego pe艂nej nazwy, przede wszystkim w celu ochrony tutejszych ro艣lin. A jest co chroni膰. Jak podaje tablica informacyjna, w rezerwacie stwierdzono ponad 300 gatunk贸w ro艣lin naczyniowych, w tym 16 obj臋tych ochron膮[2]Rezerwat Smolnik w Wikipedii, w tym m.in. kotewka orzech wodny czy rosiczka okr膮g艂olistna. Warto tak偶e usi膮艣膰 przy brzegu stawu, kt贸ry stanowi znaczn膮 cz臋艣膰 powierzchni rezerwatu i poobserwowa膰 ptaki czy wa偶ki, kt贸rych jest tu mn贸stwo. Podobno mo偶na tu tak偶e spotka膰 bobry, turkawki, zimorodki czy wydry, ale my tyle szcz臋艣cia nie mieli艣my.

Siedzenie jest przyjemne, ale nadal s艂ycha膰 tu szum aut, a to nie to, co najbardziej nas interesuje, dlatego postanowili艣my i艣膰 dalej, do lasu, w kierunki Kamienie艅ca. To tutaj powsta艂 w XVIII wieku pierwszy w okolicy piec hutniczy.[3]historia Szumiradu Do miejscowo艣ci prowadzi le艣na droga, kt贸r膮 doje偶d偶aj膮 ludzie do kilku ostatnich pozosta艂ych tam dom贸w. Cz臋艣膰 z nich jest opuszczona i wida膰, jak przyroda powoli odzyskuje ten teren. Okolice obj臋te s膮 drugim w okolicy rezerwatem, kt贸ry swoj膮 nazw臋 wzi膮艂 od tej wsi. Obj臋to nim m.in. torfowisko oraz spor膮 cz臋艣膰 doliny rzeki Budkowiczanka p艂yn膮ca dalej do wspomnianego wcze艣niej rezerwatu Smolnik.

rezerwat Kamieniec
Mokrad艂a w rezerwacie Kamieniec

St膮d poszli艣my nast臋pnie drog膮 ku kolejnej osadzie – Cha艂upy. Nazwa pasuje idealnie – budynki by艂y trzy, w tym dwie cha艂upy. Ogrodzone drewnianym p艂otem, nieco niedoinwestowane, cho膰 zadbane. Tu r贸wnie偶 podobno kiedy艣 by艂 piec hutniczy, jednak nie znale藕li艣my po nim ani 艣ladu. Niestety nie znalaz艂em 偶adnej mapy okolicy, na kt贸rej by艂y by zaznaczone 艣cie偶ki, posi艂kowali艣my si臋 wi臋c zdj臋ciami satelitarnymi z Google maps pr贸buj膮c znale藕膰 dalsz膮 drog臋. Nie chcieli艣my chodzi膰 zbyt d艂ugo, ale te偶 nie chcieli艣my wraca膰 t膮 sam膮 drog膮, wi臋c postanowili艣my przej艣膰 do r贸wnoleg艂ej drogi id膮cej za torami. 艢cie偶ka by艂a du偶o rzadziej ucz臋szczana, ni偶 dotychczasowa droga, ale bez problemu mo偶na by艂o ni膮 przej艣膰. Przy okazji mogli艣my zatrzyma膰 si臋 i poogl膮da膰 mr贸wki pracuj膮ce ci臋偶ko znosz膮ce materia艂y na rozbudow臋 mrowiska i jedzenie.

Cha艂upy - p艂ot
P艂ot przy drodze w Cha艂upach.

Pozwolili艣my sobie przej艣膰 przez tory kolejowe w miejscu, kt贸re do tego nie by艂o przeznaczone. S膮dz膮c jednak po drzewach rosn膮cych na 艣rodku torowiska, 偶aden poci膮g nie jecha艂 t臋dy od dawna, wi臋c odwa偶yli艣my si臋.  Po przej艣ciu tor贸w 艣cie偶ka zn贸w by艂a wygodna. W tej cz臋艣ci las wygl膮da bardziej gospodarczo – drzewa s膮 g艂贸wnie iglaste (cho膰 to pewnie przede wszystkim zas艂uga piaszczystej gleby) z niewielk膮 ilo艣ci膮 m艂odych siewek, oczyszczony z wi臋kszych konar贸w czy uschni臋tych drzew. Jeszcze jedn膮 ciekawostk膮 by艂 niemal zupe艂nie rudy kolor runa.

Nieu偶ywane tory
Tory relacji Kluczbork – Strzelce Opolskie. S膮dz膮c po siewkach drzew, nie u偶ywane od przynajmniej kilku lat

Spok贸j w okolicy jest niebywa艂y. Szli艣my w wakacyjn膮 sobot臋, przy dobrej pogodzie, a wi臋c w warunkach idealnych do spacer贸w. A tymczasem od opuszczenia Szumiradu spotkali艣my tylko jedn膮 osob臋 w samym Kamie艅cu, przez ca艂膮 reszt臋 drogi ani jednego dwuno偶nego stworzenia. Tylko cisza, szum lasu, klekot sosen obijaj膮cych si臋 na wietrze i 艣piew ptak贸w. Cisz臋 i spok贸j na chwil臋 zak艂贸ci艂y nam dopiero trzy jelenia, kt贸re najwyra藕niej sp艂oszyli艣my niechc膮cy. Wybieg艂y spomi臋dzy drzew, przebieg艂y nam drog臋 i znikn臋艂y si臋 w lesie.

艁ania
艁ania jelenia szlachetnego przebiegaj膮ca drog臋 le艣n膮

Na skraju sosnowej cz臋艣ci lasu i w okolicy stacjonuj膮cej tu jednostki wojskowej natkn臋li艣my si臋 na eleganckiego chrz膮szcza. Mia艂 smuk艂e br膮zowe cia艂o i czu艂ki tak d艂ugie, 偶e przekracza艂y po艂ow臋 d艂ugo艣ci jego cia艂a. D艂ugie czu艂ki s膮 cech膮 charakterystyczn膮 dla ca艂ej rodziny k贸zkowatych, do kt贸rej nale偶y spotkany chrz膮szcz. Jego nazwa: wykarczak sosnowiec (Arhopalus rusticus) nie pozostawia w膮tpliwo艣ci, 偶e w lasach gospodarczych jest postrzegany jako szkodnik.

Wykarczak sosnowiec
Wykarczak sosnowiec

Wkr贸tce zn贸w dotarli艣my do Kamie艅ca i do Szumiradu wr贸cili艣my t膮 sam膮 drog膮, kt贸r膮 z niego przyszli艣my. Dopiero tutaj zobaczyli艣my, 偶e cz臋艣膰 naszej trasy pokrywa si臋 z czerwonym szlakiem. Jest to “Szlak budownictwa drewnianego” wiod膮cy od Kluczborka przez Olesno i licz膮cy sobie 56,2 km. Trzeba jednak przyzna膰, 偶e znakowania szlaku nie by艂y (przynajmniej w tej okolicy) odnawiane od dawna.

艣cie偶ka do Szumiradu
droga przez las, w stron臋 Szumiradu

Przed powrotem do Opola, maj膮c jeszcze troch臋 czasu, warto odpocz膮膰 odwiedzaj膮c ponownie rezerwat Smolnik.

Staw jest ostoj膮 Kotewki orzecha wodnego (Trapa natans), kt贸ra lubi stawy lub cieki o wolnym przep艂ywie i du偶ym nas艂onecznieniu. Owoce tej ro艣liny s膮 os艂oni臋te 艂up膮, a kszta艂tem przypominaj膮 kotwiczk臋, st膮d nazwa. Kolcami 艂upiny mo偶na si臋 bole艣nie zrani膰, co ch臋tnie wykorzystywano w przesz艂o艣ci u偶ywaj膮c tych 艂upin jako element贸w pu艂apek na wroga. Owoce s膮 jadalne i bardzo od偶ywcze. Opr贸cz skrobi zawieraj膮 sporo bia艂ka i makroelement贸w. Aby spr贸bowa膰 orzecha wodnego nie nale偶y rzuca膰 si臋 do stawu, poniewa偶 kotewka orzech wodny jest w Polsce ro艣lin膮 chronion膮. Nie naruszaj膮c rezerwatu, mo偶na 艂atwo kupi膰 rozety w niekt贸rych sklepach ogrodniczych, tak偶e wysy艂kowo lub na gie艂dach ogrodniczych i uprawia膰 w przydomowym oczku wodnym.

Kotewka orzech wodny

Kotewce ch臋tnie towarzyszy gr膮偶el 偶贸艂ty (Nuphar lutea), kt贸ry w czasie naszego spaceru porasta艂 znaczn膮 cz臋艣膰 stawu. W okresie jego kwitnienia lustro wody mieni si臋 zieleni膮 i 偶贸艂ci膮, kolorami i艣cie letnimi.

W nas艂onecznionych okolicach stawu przy drodze albo na kamieniu, mo偶na zobaczy膰 wygrzewaj膮c膮 si臋 jaszczurk臋 偶yworodn膮 (Zootoca vivipara). 艁atwo ja odr贸偶ni膰; ma kilkana艣cie centymetr贸w, jasnobr膮zowe ubarwienie i ciemniejsze smugi – jedn膮 grzbietow膮 i dwie grubsze boczne, ci膮gn膮ce si臋 wzd艂u偶 cia艂a. Wystraszona 偶ywor贸dka mo偶e szuka膰 schronienia w stawie. Bardzo dobrze p艂ywa, a nawet nurkuje. Inn膮 strategi膮 obronn膮 jaszczurek jest autotomia, czyli odrzucenie ogona. Cho膰 o zjawisku s艂ysza艂 prawie ka偶dy, warto nadmieni膰, 偶e utrata ogona nie jest dla zwierz臋cia oboj臋tna. Ogon jest elementem jej urody, stanowi atraktant dla p艂ci przeciwnej. Jest w nim tez gromadzony t艂uszcz. Utrata ogona, cho膰 ratuje z opresji mo偶e obni偶y膰 atrakcyjno艣膰, a wi臋c szanse rozrodcze, a tak偶e szanse na prze偶ycie zimy. Ogon, kt贸ry odrasta bywa zdeformowany i nie zawsze ma pierwotne rozmiary. Ciekawe wnioski na temat 藕r贸de艂 autotomii wysnu艂 zesp贸艂 badawczy pod kierownictwem ekolog贸w z Uniwersytetu w Michigan. Stwierdzili oni, 偶e taka obrona prawdopodobnie wyewoluowa艂a w odpowiedzi na ataki 偶mij i jest form膮 ochrony przed 艣mierci膮 w wyniku zatrucia jadem.

jaszczurka 偶ywor贸dka
jaszczurka 偶ywor贸dka. Potrafi si臋 艣wietnie maskowa膰 w suchej trawie.

Musimy przyzna膰, ze nie spodziewali艣my si臋 takiego spokoju na trasie. Wybrali艣my si臋 tutaj licz膮c na wi臋kszy spok贸j, ni偶 w innych miejscach, ale rzeczywisto艣膰 przeros艂a nasze oczekiwania. Na pewno wr贸cimy jeszcze w te okolice. Mo偶e troch臋 wi臋cej czasu sp臋dzimy w pobli偶u rezerwat贸w, spr贸bujemy znale藕膰 drogi wok贸艂 nich by poobserwowa膰 lepiej przyrod臋 tu chronion膮. Polecamy te okolice wszystkim, kt贸rzy ceni膮 sobie cisz臋 i spok贸j podczas obcowania z natur膮.

z贸艂ciak siarkowy
z贸艂ciak siarkowy
niszczej膮cy budynek w Kamie艅cu
niszczej膮cy budynek w Kamie艅cu
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Przypisy

Przypisy
1 smolarnia (w lokalnej gwarze smolnik) – zak艂ad, w kt贸rym pozyskiwano z resztek drewna smo艂臋, terpentyn臋 czy alkohol metylowy. W okolicy by艂o ich kiedy艣 kilka i to im swoj膮 nazw臋 zawdzi臋cza rezerwat
2 Rezerwat Smolnik w Wikipedii
3 historia Szumiradu
Podoba ci si臋? Udost臋pnij stron臋

Je艣li masz jakie艣 uwagi odno艣nie tego tekstu lub po prostu ci si臋 on podoba, zostaw komentarz. Ch臋tnie dowiemy si臋, co inni o tym my艣l膮 oraz co mo偶emy poprawi膰 w przysz艂o艣ci.
Niestety ze wzgl臋du na ilo艣膰 spamu wpisywanego w przez r贸偶ne boty komentarze s膮 moderowane.

Zapraszamy tak偶e do polubienia nas w serwisie Facebook, dzi臋ki temu b臋dziesz zawsze na bie偶膮co z nowymi wpisami.

Mo偶esz r贸wnie偶 polubi膰鈥

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